Pizza Delivery to the Israeli Embassy?

I would be a terrible spy (and not because there are only about 3 countries on this planet where I can walk down the street and not stand out like a sore thumb).

I'm staying at a Saudi-run hotel in downtown Amman, which means there is no alcohol to be found, and the women are completely shrouded in veils right up to their eyeballs. Yesterday, I went down to breakfast, to find that I was the only woman who wasn't covered... I felt totally naked. Fortunately, I had my book, a plate of hummus, pita and salted tomatoes, and several cups of muddy coffee to distract me from my exposure. Interestingly enough, nobody stared, threw me looks of contempt, or seemed to even notice... but I did. I'm used to being around the headscarves and the chador. It's the purdah (the veil that covers the face) that made me feel so vulnerable. Hmmm.

Anyway, I'd be a terrible spy because during breakfast, I became very curious about how women in purdah eat. I tried strategically raising my book and peering over, then pretending that I was staring out the window... I probably would have been less obvious if I had just gone over and asked. The answer is: they pull their veil out a little and bring the food up underneath.

Last night I went to bridal shower for Salma, hosted by a friend of her's who, despite actually living in Bangladesh, has a house in Amman across from the Israeli embassy. We tried getting to the house from about three different directions, and were stopped each time by armed soldiers, road barricades, barbed wire, and tanks. They wouldn't let us through, without official documentation stating our reasons for the visit (do you think they'd accept a frilly invitation to a bridal shower?), and becuase we were in a taxi. We finally ended up calling the hostess on a cell phone, who sent a servant out to chaperone us through security.

I guess they don't call in for pizza delivery too often.

In case you're wondering, the gifts at Jordanian bridal showers are as raunchy as the raunchiest of American bridal showers. All of this was going on while the women were getting henna-ed...

My friend Jane is arriving from Philadelphia tonight, and tomorrow is the wedding...

There are about 20 people from grad school who will be attending the wedding. KSGers: see the list below...

Some people have asked about posting photographs in my blog... I have tons of photos, believe me, but I don't know how to get them from my camera into my blog. Does anyone have any ideas? I'm writing from public computers...

On Sunday, the Amman festivities will come to an end, and the dusty, dirty travels will begin. I'm hoping to do three things before I head out of Jordan toward Syria... visit Wadi Rum (a desertscape, about 20 miles north of the Saudi border) and Petra (and sleep in the desert in a Bedouin camp), and float in the Dead Sea.

I'm doubtful the Bedouins have wireless internet, but we shall see!

KSG representation:
Me, Reed, Beth, Stephanie, Steen (Denmark), Lisa, Masuda (Afghanistan, living in Dubai), Sergey (Russia), Carrie (USA, living in the Ukraine), Inese and husband (Latvia), Minh, Kara, Joyce, Aminu (Nigeria), Sepideh (Iran), Jo, Magda (Egypt), Luc (France) ... there are others... I'll update this list as I remember them!