Prologue

On Saturday I leave for Amman, Jordan for a three week trip through two, possibly three, countries. For those of you who know me, you know that I love to travel - many of you have probably received my long wandering e-mails over the years, as I meandered through Southeast Asia (see photo), Central and South America - all solo adventures.

The last time I was in the Middle East was nearly 20 years ago, when I was 18, living and working in Cairo, and traveling through Egypt. Since that time, I've sought out and embraced travels that lead me off the beaten path, where I am completely out of my element, surrounded by the unfamiliar. It is in these environments that I repeatedly experience an important lesson that I try to carry with me throughout my life - that most people are good. Over the years, I have experienced such profound kindness from people from the far reaches of the world; generosity, curiosity, integrity, hospitality. I've been fed, housed, toured, introduced; brought to weddings, funerals, birthday parties, anniversaries, town and school meetings, soccer matches, musical performances, tribal dances, indigenous fighting matches, to secret alcoves, caves, underground pools and cliffs with never-ending views, that I would have never found otherwise.


The last year has been an unbelievable journey, from finishing graduate school (as a 36-year old "midcareer"), to moving to Indonesia and working in the tsunami relief effort, living in Belmont Massachusetts where the Swiftenhartz family served as my loving safety net, and now, the most recent chapter, living in Washington DC and working for the United Nations. It's been a bit of a rollercoaster, and I need to remind myself, from time to time, that this is what I wanted, and what I chose for myself.

So, I leave for Amman on Saturday, to attend Salma’s wedding on September 1, and the preceding week of festivities. There are about 20 of us from grad school, from about 15 different countries, who will be attending – I have no idea how many will be attending overall. I think weddings are one the best windows into a culture.

Salma is a magnet, a denmother, a connector. She is one of those unique people who builds community wherever she goes, invites people in and makes them feel at home. She, in many ways, was one of the central figures that held our class of amazing, colorful, and dynamic people together. Throughout our year at school, I met various friends of hers, from near and far, who concurred that, wherever she is, Salma brings people together. I feel so fortunate to be able to witness her marriage, and participate in the celebrations, which I think will be an exuberant and fascinating experience.

My friend Jane will be arriving from Philadelphia (the ancient name of Amman, by the way!) just before the wedding, and we will spend the following weeks traveling around Jordan and Turkey. How we will get from Jordan to Turkey has yet to be determined – will we go through Syria, or go over Syria? Not sure. I’ve received mixed messages from friends far and wide, but the American Embassy in Damascus has stated that they are not discouraging Americans from visiting Syria. Of course things could change on a dime, and anti-American sentiment is (understandably) at all-time high. We're going to play it by ear, and decide while we're there.

As usual, I have volumes more to say, but I'll cut it short for now.

I hope you're well...